Saturday, May 25, 2013

Summary - Botswana/Namibia May 2013

A total of 6 580kms and 794.5l, 28 days. Fuel cost R10 000; accommodation R7300; boat cruises/fishing R2 900; external meals and booze R1 300 = ALL IN R21 500 excluding normal food and drinks.
Camp highs: Senyati, Mavunje (Dan's place!); Drotsky's Cabins; Namwi Island.
Camp lows: Island Safari (Maun) and to a lesser degree Sarasunga (Rundu)
All other stopovers are above average.
First sightings with photo opportunity: Pel's Fishing Owl (Drotsky's); Retz's Helmet Shrike (Drotsky's); Temminck's Courser (Okaukoejoe); Lechwe (Mavunje). Missed photo: Rufous Bellied Heron (Mavunje); Seen before but good photo: White Backed Night Heron (Ngepi). Good photo popportunity: Giant Kingfisher and out of water otter, both at Drotsky's.
Food, compliments of Luis' culinary skills, varied and all good. Uniquely different to the normal bush experience was the spicy pork made out of pork shoulder chops. Will definitely appear in future catering.
Data: Namibia MTC - had to buy airtime and convert to data. Sim is pin locked and need to figure out how to disable when using the router. This time, we were able to use Sonja's laptop but could be a problem on other trips.
Botswana Orange - what a pleasure. Bought sim for P15 plus P200 recharge. Resulted in P249 plus free 5mb. What's really nice is that available balance can be used for airtime or data without a lengthy conversion process.


Botswana, Martin's Drift, Kwa Nokeng. 24/5/13

Last stop over prior to home. Right at border post. Lovely setting on banks of Limpopo but noisy with trucks pulling through border.






At least it only leaves about 420kms tomorrow.
Treated ourselves to lodge supper - P135 per head. Site fees P160
Supper was a delicious cream of green bean soup, carrots, Bolognaise & chicken, fruit salad and custard. Very nice.
Temperatures have dropped somewhat since we started heading south. Out with warm clothes.

Friday, May 24, 2013

Botswana, Gweta, 23/5/13

Chase's birthday today. Managed to talk to him on the cell. Loved our singing.
Journey is winding down now. Last few stops are just stop overs to facilitate the trip home.
Island Safari has gone down in our estimation. Very seedy & noisy. After having blissful evenings listening to owls, frogs and hippos, we had loud music, traffic, dogs and cows.
Trip here uneventful. The contrast between overgrazed, barren rural communities to the lush conservancy areas is remarkable. Couple of raptor sightings en route plus giraffe.
Gweta Lodge is unchanged. Friendly staff/owners and pleasant lodge surroundings. P140
Spent the evening at the lodge pub - power outages are common for roughly 3 to 4 hours per evening. Thought it was only in SA. Ended up chatting to Darren Brady regarding his rather varied life choices. Quite interesting.




Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Botswana, Maun, Island Safari Lodge. 22/5/13

The first 230kms of the 400km stretch to Maun required intense concentration as the road is riddled with potholes. That's not even taking the donkeys, goats, horses, cows and ostriches into account. Hectic.
Shopping for provisions, filling up with fuel and trying to find an ATM machine that worked, all took nearly 2 hours.
Camp sites are much the same as last visit, just with some strategically placed shade cloth to designate the sites.
P120 per night ... can't complain.
Unusual for us, I know, but no photos today.
Water level in the delta is very low. All the Kraals which were covered before are now exposed and housing cows.


Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Botswana, Shakawe, Drotsky's Cabins. 21/5/13

Another night of owls huhuhuing accompanied by frogs and hippo grunts.
Luis having a bit of a torrid time this morning. Emptied the pee bucket, poured hot water in to rinse, shook it and it exploded all over him! Golden shower? Goes for shower, grabs towel and the blasted monkey pooped all over the towel!
Yesterday did not think I would have any pics to post and look what happened. One can never tell when new opportunities will present themselves.
Our daily perambulation through the park brought new results yet again. Never ceases to surprise us. Today, our first sighting of a Retz's Helmetshrike.






Also, a couple of bushbuck - very shy.



Off to Maun, Island Safari Lodge for a one or two nighter.

Botswana, Shakawe, Drotsky's Cabins. 20/5/13

Lazy day although we did go for a long perimeter walk (looking for the Pel's). Went up to reception to enquire about buying bread and found a couple of unusuals
Otter



Giant kingfisher



At 3pm we went out on a boat cruise - sole mission - find the Pel's. Some photo opportunities en route






And then ... Finally ... Our long wished for sighting of the Pel's.






The trip back yielded a breeding colony of bee eaters with crocs waiting patiently below






Will go to bed happier than usual tonight!
A hippo just attempted to climb the river bank in front of our site. One almighty kaplush later ... fortunately, he was unsuccessful.

Monday, May 20, 2013

Botswana, Shakawe, Drotsky's Cabins. 19/5/13

Lovely border (Mahembo) crossing with friendly, chatty officials on both sides.
Pleasant change.
Back at Drotsky's - love this place. Huge tree woodland area, next to the Kavango. Huge sites as well.


A pair of Pel's are often seen around here ... Here's hoping!
Monkeys are a problem but, fortunately, our set up does not involve external storage.
Went on late afternoon walk along the banks to try and find the elusive Pel's. No such luck for now.
Luis' potjie bubbling away.



Love this tree next to us. Like the mask profile created by highlights.



Heard a few African Wood Owl throughout the night and hippo, of course, but no Pel's.

Sunday, May 19, 2013

Namibia, Kongola, Mavunje. 18/5/13

Nothing like the early morning bush freshness.
Will stay another night. The only hard part is getting over the heat of the 11am to 3pm slump.
The bottles that make up the windows in the ablutions are effective. One of the horizontal ones in the toilet has an ant colony industriously working away. Makes one think of the ant farms we saw as children.
Morning visitor confirmed as elephant.
Found "roosting" place of one or two bush babies. Photo of ear!!!!

The afternoon boat cruise was incredible. Travelling along elephant corridors with towering reeds on either side. Up close and personal with elephants and hippos on their turf.


Saw lechwe for the first time.

Got delayed by angry bull hippos blocking our path on return trip. We ended up navigating the channels and corridors by moonlight. What a rush. Take my hat off to Dan - he knows these waters well.


After showering and eating, we joined Dan and his cronies round their camp fire. Talk about United Nations: Scottish, English, German, South African & Portuguese all united in their love of the bush. (And a quiet drink or two!)

Namibia, Kongola, Mavunje, 17/5/13

Wow, this place is really secluded and out the back of beyond.
After missing the turning in Kongola (we actually didn't realize we were in Kongola - it's basically a service station and a bottle store), we eventually found our way.
Really lovely setting on the banks of the Kwando river and a protected wildlife area.
























Just learned that "my" Livingstone's Turaco is actually a Schalow's Turaco!
Whoops.
Sat in the lounge around a campfire listening to the noises of the night and drinking a couple of brandies.
Frogs and toads creaking and croaking. Coucals pouring liquid from a bottle. Hippos grunting. All good. R 270
Woke up in the wee hours to munching and crunching - elephant? Hippo? Really close. Looking out the window, saw many little bush babies scampering in the trees.

Friday, May 17, 2013

Namibia, Katima Mulilo, Namwi Island . 16/5/13

Came back to Namibia via Ngoma border crossing onto Caprivi Strip. Had intended to drive though to Kongola but Luis wanted to try his hand at catching more and biggest tigers. I would like an attempt at capturing the Wood Owl, without the lens cap this time! During the drive through Chobe we did see a lot of ellies, ground hornbills, steenies, giraffe and kudu.
Relaxing day, lovely hot, strong shower. I do like this place. Luis just started fishing ... Let's see...

Forgot to include a pic of this fella from our toilet cubicle at Senyati. The biggest, fattest gecko I have ever seen. About 6 inches long and 2 inch girth



Luis caught his tiger - 2 in total with a rather large one that got away.



This little cat adopted us again. She was here the first time we came to Namwi (about 3 years ago). She took over my chair and blanket next to the fire



Last, but not least, African Wood Owl did come back and pose for us AND I remembered to remove the lens cap



On our way to Kongola on 17/5/13. As the area is a seasonal flood plain, there is no electricity so I'm guessing there'll be no data signal. Posting this on the morning of 17/5, just in case. Oh, and Luis caught a small tiger this morning ... cat is still in the chair and all is well with the world. We'll be back!


Thursday, May 16, 2013

Botswana, Kasane, Senyati. 15/5/13

Have decided to stay in this paradise for another day. Hyena and jackal very vocal last night. Both were in the camp at one stage. Nightwatchman sent them on their way.
Luis spent majority of his day relaxing with racing on his iPad; I spent time in the cool, fly free pub! (Looking onto the waterhole I must add!)









Lizard buzzard, I think?





Evening spent listening to hyena and jackal. At 2pm, a lone bull came to visit. Luis made us coffee while we watched him from inside The Rad. (Somewhat nervously, I might add!).
When hyena came into camp, the ellie made his way slowly out of camp.

Botswana, Kasane, Senyati, 14/5/13

Johan and Sonja started their long trek back home this morning. For us the adventure continues.
Weather is definitely warmer here than at any of our other previous venues. Senyati is in a valley which probably accounts for that!
Watching impala pronking as they make their way to the waterhole. Just too far for camera.
A lone Sable came to drink.



Even vultures get thirsty






A herd of 14 Sable couple of hours after the lone bull



Ellies never fail in the entertainment value!

This little fella got into a spot of bother



Mum to the rescue



The twins couldn't decide whether to play in the mud or evacuate slit was a constant get out and slide back in again







Adults had to join in the fun



Leap of faith



Placid flock of black backed stilts disturbed by a territorial plover



Herd of about 70 buffalo came to drink around 9ish. When they first made their somewhat silent appearance, we were busy trying to send an SMS to Dad. I looked up and said: "Look at all the little elephants that have just arrived" - oops .... intrepid game watchers, we are! The buff were just too far out of light range to get a pic. It would, of course, also have helped to confirm light range theory by ensuring ... golden rule number one ... make sure your sd card is inserted correctly! Anyway, we enjoyed the view.

Botswana, Kasane, Senyati 13/5/13

Up early to meet Mark for some tiger fishing for the guys and bird watching for the ladies.
Johan received a Pula300 speeding fine as we came into Kasane.
Fishing was slow, Luis did manage to catch a small tiger. Water level is very high. Birding relatively quiet as we couldn't get close to the rocks where they hang out in their masses.






Squawking Squaco!





Having said all that, it was a most enjoyable trip.
Back at camp, watched elephant antics for the afternoon.
Seemed to be "fall over" afternoon.
This bigger ellie was the last in a chain reaction of pushing - she was caught unawares






Little guy just got caught up in the mad scramble through the mud






It is incredibly entertaining to watch their antics and various forms of communication. We tend to apply anthropomorphism, explaining their actions with human thoughts and reactions. Who knows?
Bigger picture of the setting