Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Day 12 Halali (Etosha)

Had a Honey Badger come to visit us last night while we were cooking.  Was scrounging grub but obviously did not want our offerings as he didn't hang around long!  Couple of owls (suspect Spotted Eagle) flew over. 
Just before going to bed we took a (long) walk up to the waterhole viewpoint. Picture the scenario:  it's very dark with secondary, slight light cast from the waterhole spotlights. There is an "african pole thatching" shelter underneath which is the seating which consists of natural ledges in huge rock formations.  It's even darker under there.  Everyone (and there were a lot of people there) is either silent or talking in hushed tones watching a family of black Rhino have a drink.  We stop walking to gather our wits (and breath) and decide we'll walk to the other side where there is a viewing deck which was not heavily populated. Luis takes a step forward through what he has perceived to be a gap in the rocks and puts his foot on the lap of a man sitting there!!  The man gives a startled yelp - fortunately Luis missed the man's "sensitive parts" and had not yet put full weight on the step so he was able to pull back very apologetically.  I got the giggles (couldn't vent full mirth due to the hallowed silence prevailing) - definitely a huge highlight of this trip!!!
Below pic taken at the waterhole using light available and an extremely slow shutter speed - had to hope the rhino wouldn't move during the time lapse.


Lovely refreshing breeze was blowing this morning.  Lasted until about 9ish when wind turned and hot north wind prevailed.  I have to do a slight rethink on the Mopani as we spotted (not a very good sighting) a caracul among them.  Very special as we have never seen this crittur in the flesh before.  Not long after that, although we were out of Mopani territory already, we had a lovely sighting of a Lappet Faced Vulture.


I know I keep going on about the changing vista as well as the vastness of the pans but it constantly blows me away.  Certain sections of the rim of the pan look almost like sand dunes with the ocean stretching to infinity in the background.  I cannot do justice with our photographic equipment but hopefully, you can get some idea:




On the next shot which is taken at the Etosha lookout point which is about 1km into the pan, I have put Luis in the foreground to try and create some perspective:


Later on our drive we happened upon one of my favourites:  the little Bat Eared Fox - there were 2 of them scurrying hell for leather across the grassy plains - just when we settled in for a nice photo session, they disappeared into their den!


Around 1ish when every living thing appears to have vanished off the face of the earth we had the bonus of a herd of ellies - it wouldn't be natural if at least one of the herd didn't charge (mock or otherwise) us and, true to form, Dumbo did not let us down:



Not far from this herd was another, frolicking (do ellies frolic?) in and around a waterhole.  The waterhole was surprisingly deep in parts, certainly sufficient for a full grown ellie to completely submerge herself.  Once again, we were astounded by the social interplay among these magnificent creatures.  A couple of sentries stand guard gazing longingly at the water, while the others enjoy themselves.  Then ... shift change ... and the sentries have their turn while another member takes his/her place.



Time to sign off - Luis has just about finished cooking - Bless him!

1 comment:

  1. It seem that you guys are really having a great time. A beautiful country. Looking at the pan try and imagine it fill with water. I believe that a year ago with all the rain they had there the Etosha pan filled with water which lasted almost most of the year. Whereto after Etosha?
    Me

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